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| From: | "Marvin Dickens (mpdickens AT gmail DOT com) [via geda-user AT delorie DOT com]" <geda-user AT delorie DOT com> |
| Date: | Wed, 8 Jul 2020 23:10:59 -0400 |
| Message-ID: | <CANEvwqgNdgnAAByK+x92XeTjybxKbK3QUjJLi==fwX=9++0MJw@mail.gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [geda-user] Soldering high current thru hole components |
| To: | geda-user <geda-user AT delorie DOT com> |
| Reply-To: | geda-user AT delorie DOT com |
--00000000000093da9605a9f9930c Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hi Nicholas, Sorry for the late reply. A good preheater beats a hot air gun. Hands down. Always. A preheater beats everything which is why every rework station in a business environment always has one front and center on the table of every technician. You can go hot air with products from Hakko, Pace or A.P.E. If you go with Infrared, go with dark IR and avoid near IR heater (Quartz tubes and such...). In essence, with IR, you want a unit that has Ersa ceramic heaters in it. Ersa ceramic heaters emit energy at a wavelength that is easily absorbed by inorganic materials like solder and other metals, but passes through organic materials such as plastic. For me, dark IR heaters are a necessity. Cheers Everybody! Wear a mask, wash your hands and stay safe! Marvin On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 4:27 PM N (nicklas DOT karlsson17 AT gmail DOT com) [via geda-user AT delorie DOT com] <geda-user AT delorie DOT com> wrote: > You did no answer, I said something stupid? > > > Hi, > > > > 30 years of experience in assembly and rework of electronic PCB's and > > devices. Use a preheater to heat the board > > up prior to trying to solder the component(s) onto the board. Heat it up > to > > at least 110 C and not more than 130 C. > > If the board has a large ground plane, it may take 15 or 20 minutes to > > preheat the board to a workable temperature. > > > > A good preheater changes everything in assembly and rework... > > > > Regards > > > > Marvin > > > > On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 6:36 PM Stephen Ecob <stephen DOT ecob AT sioi DOT com DOT au> > > wrote: > > > > > I find an electric hot air gun works well. I'd probably try solder > > > paste heated by a hot air gun with temperature monitored with an IR > > > thermometer. > > > Regards > > > Stephen Ecob > > > > > > On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 3:51 AM N (nicklas DOT karlsson17 AT gmail DOT com) [via > > > geda-user AT delorie DOT com] <geda-user AT delorie DOT com> wrote: > > > > > > > > Anybody here have experience with soldering of high current > components > > > like current sensors and connectors on thick copper boards? > > > > > > > > I have a large solder iron and it have the necessary power but tip is > > > also very large. Anyone have experience with solder iron driven by > gas? Or > > > if wave soldering work well with high current thru hole components? > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards Nicklas Karlsson > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Stephen Ecob > > > Silicon On Inspiration > > > Sydney Australia > > > www.sioi.com.au > --00000000000093da9605a9f9930c Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Nicholas,<div><br></div><div>Sorry for the late reply. = A good preheater beats a hot air gun. Hands down. Always. A preheater beats= =C2=A0</div><div>everything which is why every rework station in a business= environment always has one front and center</div><div>on the table of ever= y technician. You can go hot air with products from Hakko, Pace or A.P.E. I= f you go with</div><div>Infrared, go with dark IR and avoid near IR heater = (Quartz tubes and such...). In essence, with IR, you want</div><div>a unit = that has Ersa ceramic heaters in it. Ersa ceramic heaters emit energy at a = wavelength that is easily</div><div>absorbed by inorganic materials like so= lder and other metals, but passes through organic materials such as=C2=A0</= div><div>plastic. For me, dark IR heaters are a necessity.</div><div><br></= div><div>Cheers Everybody!=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Wear a mask, wash= your hands and stay safe!</div><div><br></div><div>Marvin</div></div><br><= div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Jul= 8, 2020 at 4:27 PM N (<a href=3D"mailto:nicklas DOT karlsson17 AT gmail DOT com">nick= las DOT karlsson17 AT gmail DOT com</a>) [via <a href=3D"mailto:geda-user AT delorie DOT com"= >geda-user AT delorie DOT com</a>] <<a href=3D"mailto:geda-user AT delorie DOT com">ge= da-user AT delorie DOT com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quot= e" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-styl= e:solid;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">You did no ans= wer, I said something stupid?<br> <br> > Hi,<br> > <br> > 30 years of experience in assembly and rework of electronic PCB's = and<br> > devices. Use a preheater to heat the board<br> > up prior to trying to solder the component(s) onto the board. Heat it = up to<br> > at least=C2=A0 110 C and not more than 130 C.<br> > If the board has a large ground plane, it may take 15 or 20 minutes to= <br> > preheat the board to a workable temperature.<br> > <br> > A good preheater changes everything in assembly and rework...<br> > <br> > Regards<br> > <br> > Marvin<br> > <br> > On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 6:36 PM Stephen Ecob <<a href=3D"mailto:step= hen DOT ecob AT sioi DOT com DOT au" target=3D"_blank">stephen DOT ecob AT sioi DOT com DOT au</a>><br= > > wrote:<br> > <br> > > I find an electric hot air gun works well. I'd probably try s= older<br> > > paste heated by a hot air gun with temperature monitored with an = IR<br> > > thermometer.<br> > > Regards<br> > > Stephen Ecob<br> > ><br> > > On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 3:51 AM N (<a href=3D"mailto:nicklas.karls= son17 AT gmail DOT com" target=3D"_blank">nicklas DOT karlsson17 AT gmail DOT com</a>) [via<b= r> > > <a href=3D"mailto:geda-user AT delorie DOT com" target=3D"_blank">geda-u= ser AT delorie DOT com</a>] <<a href=3D"mailto:geda-user AT delorie DOT com" target=3D= "_blank">geda-user AT delorie DOT com</a>> wrote:<br> > > ><br> > > > Anybody here have experience with soldering of high current = components<br> > > like current sensors and connectors on thick copper boards?<br> > > ><br> > > > I have a large solder iron and it have the necessary power b= ut tip is<br> > > also very large. Anyone have experience with solder iron driven b= y gas? Or<br> > > if wave soldering work well with high current thru hole component= s?<br> > > ><br> > > ><br> > > > Regards Nicklas Karlsson<br> > ><br> > ><br> > ><br> > > --<br> > > Stephen Ecob<br> > > Silicon On Inspiration<br> > > Sydney Australia<br> > > <a href=3D"http://www.sioi.com.au" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_= blank">www.sioi.com.au</a><br> </blockquote></div> --00000000000093da9605a9f9930c--
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