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Mail Archives: geda-user/2013/10/14/02:41:26

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Message-ID: <525B91D0.8010209@estechnical.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 07:40:16 +0100
From: Ed Simmons <ed AT estechnical DOT co DOT uk>
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To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com
CC: Dave Curtis <davecurtis AT sonic DOT net>
Subject: Re: [geda-user] Soldering Station suggestions
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X-Authenticated-As: ed AT estechnical DOT co DOT uk
Reply-To: geda-user AT delorie DOT com

Hi all,

Sorry for the shameless plug, but since we're talking soldering you may 
be interested in these: http://www.estechnical.co.uk/reflow-controllers 
and http://www.estechnical.co.uk/reflow-ovens.

We originally designed these reflow controllers to upgrade the T962A 
oven (the original control as fitted by the manufacturer is stupid and 
incredibly variable - also nigh on impossible to adjust) and we now get 
good results with these cheapo chinese ovens using our controls.

If anyone has any questions, please let me know...

Best,
Ed



On 14/10/2013 01:07, Dave Curtis wrote:
> I've done both toaster-oven and hot plate soldering.  Both work well.
>
> A $20 toaster oven is good enough.  I have a reflow controller -- a friend uses a thermocouple wire and a solid-state relay connected via an FTDI serial cable and gets good results.
>
> My current hot-plate set up is a $20 kitchen hot plate, and a Fluke non-contact IR thermometer.  Yes, the Fluke costs a few dollars, but I had it anyway.  The hot plate thermostat cycles across about a 30C range, pretty wide.  What I do is set it so the high end where the thermostat kicks out is just below reflow temperature.  Set the board on the hot plate for 60 or so seconds for "heat soak", then use a puff of hot air over the components to get them to reflow -- works great.
>
> In either case, the key to success is getting a tiny enough amount of solder on the pad.  I'm currently using a paste dispenser picked up cheap/used off flea-bay.
>
> -dave
>
> On Oct 13, 2013, at 4:12 PM, Britton Kerin wrote:
>
>> I recently got around to trying solder paste and a toaster oven and I'm frankly amazed
>> how well it works, the boards come out looking like a pro prototype shop made them.
>> Pcbbool and probably others give a free stainless steel stencil now so unless your photo etching your own PCBs I don't see any reason not to bake your boards.
>>
>> I do use a leaded solder paste, I've heard that the lead-free ones can be a bit too high-temp for toaster ovens.  I use a temperature indicator crayon, though
>> I'm not sure I really need it since I also just put a little blob of paste on an empty
>> spot on the board and watch for it to ball up, then give it a little extra cooking and call it
>> good :)
>>
>> Britton
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Rob Butts <r DOT butts2 AT gmail DOT com> wrote:
>> Thanks!
>>   
>> I decided to go with a combo iron/hot air.  After watching a few videos I think it might be worth trying hot air; especially where I'm about to get into 0.5mm pitch.  It looks easy (hopefully I didn't curse it).
>>   
>> Now for cheap good soldering paste.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 13, 2013 at 6:04 PM, DJ Delorie <dj AT delorie DOT com> wrote:
>>
>> I use a Metcal MX500, which is a step up from the SP200, but only
>> because I got it cheap on eBay :-)
>>
>> I have a couple of different tips and handpieces for it, and can do
>> down to 01005 size.
>>
>>
>


-- 
Ed Simmons
ed AT estechnical DOT co DOT uk
www.estechnical.co.uk

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