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| X-Authentication-Warning: | delorie.com: mail set sender to geda-user-bounces using -f |
| Date: | Mon, 2 Jan 2012 13:23:41 -0500 |
| Message-Id: | <201201021823.q02INfjh027432@envy.delorie.com> |
| From: | DJ Delorie <dj AT delorie DOT com> |
| To: | geda-user AT delorie DOT com |
| In-reply-to: | <4F01E26F.4030905@optonline.net> (message from gene glick on Mon, |
| 02 Jan 2012 11:59:27 -0500) | |
| Subject: | Re: [geda-user] home soldering with hot-plates |
| References: | <4F01186A DOT 5040203 AT optonline DOT net> <4F01E26F DOT 4030905 AT optonline DOT net> |
| Reply-To: | geda-user AT delorie DOT com |
| Errors-To: | nobody AT delorie DOT com |
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> Would you say it takes a little bit of practice to get this working? > That is to say, before this works well should I expect to fubar > boards? Solder bridges and splashes are not a problem - but > destroyed traces are. I can probably obtain a number of random > unused boards for experimental purposes. Maybe that makes sense > before jumping in with my new board - it would really ruin my day if > the board got destroyed. The only time I damaged a board with this technique was when I was doing more than one board in a row, and didn't let the hotplate cool between boards. However, the result wasn't a broken trace, it was a charred PCB that *still worked*. You're not going to get anything hot enough to melt copper. But for a 12x12 board, I would think a pizza oven and a controller from eBay would be a better choice. I tend to do smaller boards.
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